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BLUE LIGHT OF DEATH, Blue light at night is killing you and it is all by design


Blue light is a weapon, has one of the shortest wavelengths, cuts the body’s production of melatonin, which plays a key role in regulating the body clock.This disrupts other hormones, causing prostate and breast cancer and other hormonal cancers. ALL BY DESIGN

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This entry was posted on May 6, 2018, 9:48 am and is filed under Agenda 21. You can follow any responses to this entry through RSS 2.0. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

  1. #1 by Anonymous on May 8, 2018 - 10:08 am

    You are dead on about the lighting. ESPECIALLY LED which is EVIL! I MUST get that filter for my computer. During the day, the high color temperature is less of an issue obviously, but I have to do most of my stuff on it after dark, and NEED 2700 K on it. IMPORTANT!!!! JUST BECAUSE AN LED CAN BE HAD IN 2700 K, DOES NOT MEAN IT DOESN’T HAVE A BLUE SPIKE, BECAUSE IT DOES! THE BLUE LED DIES THEMSELVES EMIT NEAR-UV LIGHT THAT EXCITES A PHOSPHOR, AND CAUSES IT TO FLUORESCE, MAKING THE COLOR DESIRED. WHITE LED’S USE THIS DESIGN, NOT COLORED ONES. THEY ARE REALLY SOLID STATE FLUORESCENT LAMPS, BUT EVEN THE 2700K ONES STILL HAVE A NASTY BLUE SPIKE THAT BYPASSES THE PHOSPHOR. FOR THAT REASON, DO NOT USE ANY WHITE LED’S IN LIVING ROOMS, AND SLEEPING SPACES, INCANDESCENT ONLY! EVEN BETTER, THE EDISON CARBON FILAMENT LAMPS EMITTED A VERY WARM, AROUND 2400-2500 K COLOR, AND WILL TURN ON YOUR MELATONIN LIKE CRAZY AND MAKE YOU SLEEP! THIS ALSO GOES FOR NIGHT LIGHTS-RED ONES OF ANY TYPE OF SOURCE ARE OK, AS ARE THE ORANGE NEON ONES. BLUE ONES SHOULD NEVER BE USED. GREEN IS NOT TOO BAD, BUT RED IS BEST. OBVIOUSLY, YELLOW OR ORANGE IS FINE. EVEN A TINY BLUE LED INDICATOR LIGHT ON AN APPLIANCE OR DEVICE WILL CAUSE SLEEP DISTURBANCE!!!!!!

    I used to use all warm white fluorescent lamps in my work shop, the basement, the kitchen which had a 3 lamp circline fluorescent fixture that is now in the basement, but i miss badly, and before that, incandescent. My only complaint about the incandescent unit is it blew bulbs a lat because we were using standard and soft white 75 watt bulbs with a rated life of only 750-850 hours, and that light was on more than any other in the house! (as is typical of kitchen lights!) When I installed the circline, gotten from a house we were demolishing as that was our business back then, so all kinds of cool free stuff like this, I used the most readily available circline fluorescent lamps in it, common cool white at 4150 K. It was crisp and bright, and good for preparing meals, etc, but it was harsh, especially at night, and I didn’t understand why back then, as I was between 14 and 15 then. I realized the warm white lamps at 3000 K so still very warm, were easier on my eyes when I was in a J.C. Penney lit by them, all 8 foot slimline lamps. I got a set of warm white lamps, kind of hard to find, and costing more, but the end results were quite pleasant, and I netted a 20% increase in light over the cool white lamps to boot! Warm white had a lower color rendering index, though, so the only drawback. That fixture is back to using cool white, and also one of the 2 ballasts inside smoked out after a bench test and I converted it to classic old school preheat start with starters and 3 ballasts, one for each lamp, instead of a 2 lamp rapid start for the small and middle size lamps, and a single lamp rapid start for the large lamp. Preheat ROCKS! Super reliable, and I love the starting sequence! Rapid start usually has issues starting when it is hot and humid, as a film of water get on the lamps and partially shunts the high open circuit voltage of the ballast, lowering the voltage to the lamps enough to make them balky to start. Preheat always starts, no matter the conditions. I just cannot find legit warm white circline lamps, and the ones I have, especially the larger sizes, are now vintage and in my collection, as they have value that way. Fluorescent also emits blue light, but far less of the dangerous deep blue that LED’s emit in large amounts, so warm color fluorescent are better. CFL fluorescent emit more of the bad wavelengths because they are thin, small tubes, and run over driven to emit the shorter wavelengths. I use only standard fluorescent lamps for that reason. My work shop has daylight circlines, at 6500 K, so alot of blue, but I added a 3000 K in the smallest of the 3 lamps, and the added red rays make visual tasks easier, and the light is far less stressful now, and less harsh, while being crisp for my shop, I seldom work very late in it, so no issues with it encroaching mush on my sleep time. the one war, color lamp added makes a huge difference, and if I could get the 2 larger lamps in warm I would. I can find the middle size, 32 watt 12 inch in warm, but the 16 inch 40 watt only comes in daylight and more common, cool white these days. They are even trying to phase out these circular fluorescent lamps, and it bothers me. My music room has crisp 6500 K daylight fluorescent for reading music, and lively practice sessions. But I have subtle, soft, pleasant incandescent down lights and older track lights for that warm cozy light when wanted! I think I will start using these ones more than the fluorescent ones, which were warm white before, and I now regret switching to daylight. I have the lamps, though and can switch back. I have a classic mercury vapor light behind the house that has a crisp bluish daylight style light, but it shuts off and an incandescent dimmed by a diode comes on after a couple or hours, where I most need the mercury vapor light, and then it is soft yellow light until dawn.

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